Segovia: The Aquaduct

Looking up at the Roman aquaduct in Segovia is about like looking into the Grand Canyon of Arizona. There is not much to say - just look and look. It is hard to believe it is real. The design is perfect. It's height and length not to mention its age, all create a entity that has few equals. If you are limited to three days in Spain - Segovia's aquaduct is a must-see. It was built over 2,000 years ago of mortarless granite blocks. There are 118 arches and at its highest point soars to 95 feet. It spans the Plaza de Azoguejo, the old market square, stretching nearly 800 yards. I do not know where they nest, but the sky is filled with  swallows that soar and dive unceasingly. Walking up the street from the bus station, you can get an idea of how tall the aquaduct is by counting the stories of the buildings along the street. The aquaduct is another other of the world treasures found here in Spain.

The center niche has a figure of a saint. At some time in the distance pass she replaced a Roman diety.

Another view that makes you feel rather like a dwarf.

In 1974, the 2,000th anniversary of the aquaduct, Italy, or the city of Rome, presented this monument to the City of Segovia.  

Note the statue of the wolf with twins in the center left foreground. Then get an idea of size by noticing cars and people.

A climb up these stairs gives you a "view from the top".  Even on a very hot day, it is worth the climb.

Tourists enjoying the view

Besides seeing the whole span of  arches, we can see the single arches that brought the water from the canal on its way to the alcazar at the other end of the city.

La Granja: Continued

I am still learning how to manage this blog. I want to share a lot of photos, but they slow down posting so I shall try to make segments smaller. On to "La Granja" and it's gardens.

So many rooms and so much stuff.

Statuary, Flowers and Hedges. We wondered if it could become a maze.

Segovia - La Granja

One of the most charming and enchanting places we have found in Spain is Segovia. Its history, of course, is ancient. The Romans left their mark with the aquaduct. Standing by it makes you feel like a mouse or an ant. More about the aquaduct later. Our destination on our first visit was "La Granja'. The best English translation for this is "the farm". But kings did not live on farms as we know them. Felipe IV was French born and bred. Lonesome for Versailles he created a lovely copy in miniature. The rooms are light and airy and trimmed with gold leaf. Many ceilings are murals of Roman mythology. Statuary of Roman gods and heros abound. Photography inside the building was forbidden - so take my word for it.

The gardens and fountains are beautiful. On select days the fountains are "exercised" and the display is breathtaking.  We have yet to witness these but take the word of those who have and from photos we concur.

A true bonus to our visit the La Granja was coming across a demonstration of bobbin lace makers. The women were seated along tables chatting, laughing and pinning the threads into complicated, intricate patterns.

I never tried to count the number of bobbins, nor do I know how they kept them in order to create the delicate designs.

I never saw a piece of lace that indicated the artist was a beginner. This piece is destined to become a fan. It would not create much cool air. It would be for "show" only.

This is truly a "lace doily"

Laces come in a variety of colors and mix of colors.

The different lace "clubs" identified their association by wearing a collarlike shawl. Thimmed, of course, with bobbin lace.  I learned the word for bobbin is Bolillo, which in Mexico is a kind of bread.

Downtown Madrid

This is Kilometer 0. It not only is the center of Madrid, But of All Spain. The city streets are numbered from this point as well as the highways and freeways.  You will find this marker in the Puerta del Sol Plaza. This is an interesting plaza with streets radiating off in all directions. There are up scale shops and departments stores as well as cubby hole tiendas. During the day it is filled with mimes of all varieties and costumes, but also people wishing to see and be seen.

This fellow gave us quite a concert. Classicas music on glass. We were willing to pay a euro for his entertment. His reportoire seemed to be unlimited.

A view of Plaza Real. At one time it was the center of government and a royal reidence. I don't know what the buildings are used for. The arches cover a broad sidewalk a variety of shops and cafes.

Artists of all sorts abound.

Puerta del Sol is so colorful. The first time we visited, we used the metro. In our own neighborhood we took standard line #9. Made a change or two and surfaced into an entirely new world. I felt as though I had jumped into the postcard.

The plaza is filled with mimes. Of course, they want an Euro or two in exchange for a photo. Unless you  have a telephoto lens, that is.

A bear and a strawberry tree - the symbol of Madrid. I don't know the history of this legend, but the native swear it is true.

We are used to "drive up" windows, but how about a "walk up"?

These children, wearing  traditional dresses were on their way to the Plaza "to be seen." and to celebrate San Isidro day, the patron saint of Madrid.

I made friends with the invisible man. I am not sure what I touched when I patted him on the back. It felt rather strange.

The Neighborhood

Red Brick Apartment buildings!! Tenants can walk up or take a small, slow elevator. City planners have done a good job of providing green belts. Tucked among the trees are schools, parks and play grounds. Nearby are three swimming pools where mothers and children spend many summer hours. Most of the adults sunbathe and swim sans swim wear so we just stay in our air conditioned building.

Every apartment has a balcony. Many use them as "drying porches" for laundry. We see a lot of flowers also. A few apartments have a window air conditioner for the master bedroom. We also see a lot of dishes for TV reception.

Observations

We have been in Madrid three months now. I can tell this mission is going to fly. We have become familiar with the metro and bus system as well as the trains. We know the best places to shop as well as the most handy. It is a joke to tell someone the landmark to look for is the "red brick apartment building" - all buildings are red brick. Unless they are 100 years old.

We would certainly like to import the public transportation system to Arizona. The buses come frequently and stop about every two blocks. All buses do a "milk route" type run, but the scenery is pleasant. In Bolivia you just hailed a bus to get on or hollered "A Bajar" to hop off. Here you press a button and hand over hand get to the door. It is prudent to exit quickly. Those of us old folks or "Tercer Edad" can buy a monthly unlimited bus/metro/train pass for about 11 euros. Contrast this to Germany where every metro ride is at least 3.5 euros. The trains on this pass go to the suburbs, not outlying cities. But with an "Tarjeta Dorada" we can get great discounts for extended travel.  The trains are fast and comfortable. To most cities in Spain, train time is faster than airplane.

There are details we miss about home, such as: dryer sheets, snack bags, pie tins, corn tortillas, Ortega canned chile; lemon extract, and sour cream - just details that would make life a bit like home. I got quite excited when I finally found a Lipton Onion Soup substitute. There is a store called "Taste of America" where for a gooidly price you can get cranberry sauce or canned pumpkin.  Shoes here have 4 or 5 inch heels and toes that are pointed to resemble arrow tips.

August is the month for vacations. Many of the small shops close for two or three weeks. Madrilenos head for home - wherever that may be or the beach. Those from other places come to Madrid. We anticipate a very month at the temple.

Alcala de Henares

Our first missionary group outing was Monday, May 10th. We had barely been in town a week and were still reeling from jet lag and trying to set up housekeeping. However we would not be deterred. Getting there involved a metro ride with change then surfacing to get on a train. The ride was pleasant but the the sights were mostly industrial as we sailed along.

Alcala (axcent on the final vowel) is a very old town. Henares is the name of the river and since Roman times there has been a settlement for defense and commerce.  In the mid 1400's Cardinal Cisneros applied to the pope for permission to create a university. For many years it was exactly that - a university town. As Madrid grew in political power the university was moved to that city. The local people bought all the buildings and preserved them. They were used as commercial sites, military quarters and homes. Eventually the University returned and is still housed in classically built, beautiful buildings. The city also claims fame by being the birth place of Miguel Cervantes as well as the roosting home of many storks.

This is the central plaza. Plaza de Cervantes. It is spacious, clean and quite lovely. Surrounding the plaza are very old quaint buildings. I fancied if I knocked on a door a person in 15th century clothing would greet me.

In recent years the town has been declared a world heritage treasure. We agree, it is.

All of the university building are constructed around a central courtyard.

This is the birthplace of Miguel Cervantes. It is a museum but is closed on Monday. Therefore another trip is warrented when we can take another day to visit.  Nearby is a bench with bronze figures of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. We posed for a group photo. These are all of the Temple Missionaries (sans photographer)

The Photographer

Author Ruben Dario paid tribute to the Spanish Monarchs and Columbus

In the days of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Spanish court was mobile. Probably to keep a better profile, follow the army, flee from the opposing army and confer with church officials. Here in Alcala Columbus had the audience with Queen Isabella when she agreed to finance his exploration plans. There is statuary honoring her near the archbishop's palace where the interview took place. The palace has a more sinister history as a court for inquisition trials. The building was too large tophotograph.

This is the coat of arms at the archbishop's palace. Note the crown, the lions for the state of Leon, the castles for Castile the towers for the church and the boat for Columbus.

Statue of Queen Isabella. Place here in honor of the 400th anniversary of her death.

There were dozens of stork nests all around the city. Most nests had chicks and the parents were feeding them. We could not get any to agree to a photo op.

One tired tourist